Sunday 9 April 2023

Tossa de Mar Cycling

Here is a report of cycling in Tossa de Mar (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tossa_de_Mar). Tossa lies at the Costa Brava, roughly 1 h 15 min by car from Barcelona Airport and it is 40 km to Girona. Marc Chagall called Tossa the blue paradise (paraiso azul). In my opinion, Tossa is the first really nice town on the coast north of Barcelona. Here is a photo of Tossa...

In Tossa, you can rent bicycles from Lukasz at Tossa Cycling. Here are Ralle and Niels returning their bikes after 4 great days of cycling. The website of Tossa cycling is: https://tossacycling.com/en/. The rental prices are normal for the quality of bike that you get and Lukasz will give you a quality bike that is well maintained. Just ensure to book early and bring your pedals. Lukasz and his wife also serve coffee and beer and speak many languages including Polish, Spanish, Catalan, German and English.   

Tossa is 40 km away from Girona. The city became a centre for cyclists and endurance athletes when Lance Armstrong moved from Nice to Girona in 2001 and lived there until 2005. Girona since then attracted other cyclists and triathletes like Jan Frodeno and Emma Snowsill. As a consequence, many pro cyclists and other endurance athletes live in Girona plus many locals cycle at the weekend. Girona has become an alternative to Mallorca for cycling holidays and the locals take care with cyclists and overtake only with some distance. Here is a photo of the centre of Girona. 

Living by the coast in Tossa has advantages and disadvantages when compared to living in Girona. The advantage is that you can cycle easily along the mediterranean coast. And few routes are more gorgeous on this globe than the GI-682 clifftop coastal road that goes with 365 bends and lots of ups and downs over 21 km from Tossa de Mar to Sant Feliu di Guixols. Here is the road sign of the GI-682...
... and here a typical view. You are all the time about 100 m above the Mediterranean. 
Here is Ralf cycling it. Pine trees and views of the sea... 
... and here a view of Tossa de Mar at the Southern end of the road. There are several miradors (view points) en route.
Here a group of Estonian triathletes just to the South of the GI-682 up my local hill. 
The disadvantage of living by the coast is that there are no routes to the East, as there is the Mediterranean. During my three visits to Tossa I have cycled around 15 times and now have a good idea of the area. Here are some of my favourite routes:

Cycle loop 1: Sant Grau d'Ardenya 51 km, 980 m ascent https://www.komoot.de/tour/1075380912. This is a short loop but you must climb nearly 1000 m and so for many it will not be an easy day! Start by cycling on the GI-682 out of Tossa and then up through pine forests to the Roman church of Sant Grau d'Ardenya. There is a coffee place but I have never been. After that a bit further up and then a long and a wee bit bumpy descent to Llagostera and from there back via the smooth road of the Tossa pass into Tossa. Here are cyclists passing Sant Grau d'Ardenya...

... and here Ralle descends to the coastal road  on a day when we did the loop the other way round.

Cycle loop 2: Coast Calonge Cassa 104 km 1640 m ascent https://www.komoot.de/tour/1073873725. This is a good 100+ km ride first along the coast starting with the GI-682. After that the coastal resorts of Sant Feliu de Guixols and Platja d'Aro and then over a small pass through pine forests via La Bisbal d'Emporda (or bypass it to the West) via the Santa Pellaia climb to Cassa de Selva and then home via the Tossa pass to Tossa. Here is a photo of Sant Feliu...

... and here one of Palamos (actually a wee bit North of the loop).

Cycle loop 3: Els Angels from Tossa 107 km 1620 m ascent https://www.komoot.de/tour/1005837563. This is the classic route for Girona-based cyclists and still a good ride for cyclists based at the coast. After the Tossa pass, cycle on the busy C-65 to Girona if you want to go direct. The whole of Els Angels is now new tarmac and so a smooth ride up and a smooth ride down. After that cycle through  pretty farmland and bonny Monells to reach the Santa Pellaia climb to Cassa de Selva and hthen ome from there. There are several videos on the Els Angels ride like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwO7jfoiSFg. Here is the Els Angels monastary. From behind the monastary you have some great views towards the Pyrenees... 
... and here is a chapel near the top of the Santa Pellaia climb with views towards the gulf of Roses ("Roses" is a town by the cost).
From Tossa the direct way to Girona is the busy C-65 route. It almost looks like a motorway but it is not and there is a broad strip on the side of the road for cyclists. A less busy longer route is to go from Llagostera to Caldes de Malavella and then turn right at the beginning of the village and cycle on this road. 
After that cycle through Sant Andreu de Salou. The road is a bit rough in placest but the scenery is rural as is shown here...
... and here...
... and here...

Cycle loop 4: Montseny 167 km 3200 m ascent https://www.komoot.de/tour/1075416309. This is the hard one with more than 3000 m of ascending. Start on the busy coastal road via Lloret de Mar and Blanes towards the Montseny massif. After that climb to over 1600 m of altitude on a good road. After that more up and down and then back to the start. Here is Montseny from the distance...

It does not look tall but its highest summit is 1700 m. Here Ralle and Niels on their way to the foot of Montseny. This is initially not the most beautiful ride but it serves its purpose of getting to the foot of the mountain.

Then the long climb that takes to to above 1600 m.
Here is Niels reaching a patch of snow near the summit. The last bit of road is a bit rough.
After that a long descent. Ensure that your bike and especially your brakes are in good order. 

Overall Tossa, Girona and the nearby costa brava are great places for cycling if you are fine doing some altimetres. It is a great alternative to Mallorca.