Stelvio triplo by bike

The Stelvio (Stilfser Joch, 2758 m) is the most famous Italian mountain pass. It is located in the Ortler (3905) mountain range and connects Prad in the Vinschgau with Bormio in Veltin (Lombardia). A third ascent starts in Santa Maria in Graubünden, Switzerland, and is known as the Umbrail pass. Doing all three climbs in a day is the Stelvio triplo or gran Stelvio challenge for hobby cyclists. Here is the Komoot track: https://www.komoot.de/tour/1253100196 

Initially Dietmar, a cycling friend of mine, and I wanted to do it at the beginning of August but I came down with a cold and so we had to call it off. However, I recovered and could take the 10.08.2023 off . So I booked a hotel in Pfunds for the night before and then in the morning of the 10.08.2023 I drove to Prad and got onto my bike.

The first ascent from Prad to the Stelvio is 1800 altimetres of climbing and I had optimistically planned to cycle with 220-240 W. The legs are fresh and this power output feels easy at this stage. Here it goes up straight and there many cyclists, motor cyclists and cars on the road. It is just about OK on weekdays but hell for cyclists at the weekend, so avoid. 

Here, a little higher up comes the village of Trafoi with a view to the retreating glaciers of the Ortler... 

... and here two cyclists are just ahead of myself. 

It is never too steep but sustained with 23 uphill kilometres. After half of the ascent you cross the tree line and then climb the famous "tornantes" (German Serpentinen) or hair pin curves all the way to the summit.

I reached the pass roughly at noon. Up there are shops, food stalls and good fun Italian chaos and noise.   

As it was only 6 degrees, I put my jacket on and quickly descended 1500 metres of altitude to Bormio in the South. Plenty of motor bikes and cars. 

Here is the market square of Bormio. I sat down in an outside restaurant and ordered something starting with "T", expecting Tagliatelle or some similar form of pasta. However, it was a plate with Italian ham and some cheese. Not the fuel I wanted and needed but better than nothing. 

Back on the bike and 1500 m back up to the Stelvio. Choosing the right clothing is tricky because it was above 20 degrees in Bormio and only 6 degrees at the top. I was wearing an undershirt, a merino cycle jersey and opened it for the sweaty first part of the ascent. The climb from Bormio is long but only 1500 m altitude, so 300 m less than from Prad. 

Here a vulture near the summit... 

... and here some Alpine gentian (German: Enzian). 

Again the Italian circus at the top and back down. At around 2500 m of altitude there is a T-junction and this time I turned right. A wee ascent to reach the top of the Umbrail pass. 

From there a long, curvy descent to Santa Maria in Graubünden, Switzerland. 

The climb back up is steep and mainly hair pins but there were fewer cars than on the main road. I also was mentally tired at this stage and lay down on the grass for 10 min to refresh myself. Here, a descending cyclist near the top of the Umbrail pass... 

... and here is the T-junction where the Umbrail meets the Stelvio. The bealach of the Stelvio is behind the house in the distance, just 250 altimetres more. 

I stopped to take photos of these pretty cows, named Balu Beatrix...

... and Casper Candy .

At this stage my legs were heavy and I only managed to produce 160-180 W, far below the expected 220-240 W. Cycling mountain passes is relentless because there is no descent or opportunity just to roll a bit and so this makes you more tired than when cycling in the plains. 

By the time I reached the pass for the final time, people were packing up. 

I again put my jacket on and descended all those tornantes back to my car parked by the side of the road. 

Here is the altitude profile of the day. It was 4664 m of ascending and I felt it. 

I drove past Nauders with the much photographed church tower in the reservoir... 

... and ordered a take away Pizza Magherita and an alcohol-free beer and drove all the way back to Munich. 

In summary, the Stelvio triplo is a great challenge for hobby cyclists. Get plenty of training in and get used to pace yourself up a long mountain pass. Nutrition and drinking is important. I made rice cakes using this recipe https://www.siroko.com/blog/c/how-to-make-bike-ride-rice-cakes-and-how-to-wrap-them/. Highly recommended as you get plenty of carbs in and as they are easily digestable and not too sweet. You should aim for probably 60 g of carbohydrates per hour of ascent (= 1 Muesli bar or 1 banana is roughly 30 g). You do not need a super bike but a disc brake makes the descents much easier and arguably safer. I used 30 mm Continental 5000 tyres with inner tubes inflated to 5.5 bar. These wider tyres are great on the sometimes bumpy road and add safety. Finally, plan your clothing well. Prad is below 1000 m and the summit is at nearly 3000 m, so expect a temperature difference of more than 10 degrees. A light rain or wind jacket is essential for the first part of the descent. Good luck for your attempt!

HW