Hexenkopf from Serfaus with Abdalla

Last weekend Abdalla Mohamed, my former PhD student in Aberdeen, visited me in Munich. Abdalla is one of the toughest and most capable researchers out there as he has completed his PhD on a muscle cancer termed rhabdomyosarcoma within 3 years at a time when Egypt, his home country, experienced enormous political and economical changes. Despite all these difficulties Abdalla also published very well and collected money for Sarcoma UK, the charity that looks after sarcoma sufferers and supports research aimed at understanding sarcoma and at developing better treatments. Please give generously! In Aberdeen Abdalla has started to get into hill walking and completed the West Highland way and the Great Glen way for Sarcoma UK. As we both like mountaineering we agreed on a walk. As our target I chose a peak just over 3000 m, the Hexenkopf, from Serfaus where I had spent a holiday in my childhood. 

Here is Abdalla roughly 500 m up on a 2000 m ascent and descent day. With Scottish prudence & pride we did not use one of the ubiquitous cable cars. 

 Here is our route from Moveslink. More or less Westwards from Serfaus to the Hexenkopf. 

But the Alps are different than Scotland. Lots of bulldozed roads, snow canons, lifts and all sorts of other stuff. Still a great day out with Abdalla, now Dr. Abdalla Mohamed, but not so good for the remoteness and solitude that is so easy to find in Scotland (see last weeks entry). 

 We reached the Alpine hut serviced by the German Alpine club section Cologne/Rhineland for alcohol free beer plus some food. The hut is superbly built and equipped but lacks the character of the Scottish bothies. Still a good rest and source for calories. From there on the last 500 m up to the Hexenkopf, following the red-white-red markings on the rock. 

 A wee bit of mini scrambling and we were huffing and puffing as we felt the altitude. 

 Finally the potentially first Egyptian ascent by Abdalla and the probably 5342543th (plus/minus) German ascent by myself. 

 2000 m up (1500 m difference in altitude but we needed to cross a few bealachs as well) means 2000 m down. We had another Apple strudel in the hut and then cruised back to Serfaus. On the hillside a few hairy sausage rolls were racing up and down and left and right: Marmots. Spot the one in this picture. 

 And plenty of cows with their bells. Do they really like the constant ringing sound?

 Finally we arrived at my car after dark. Here is Abdalla still happy despite a big day, having shown that he is not only a superb researcher and postdoc but also a very capable mountaineer! I hope this wasn't our last outing together...

 

HW

Glas Maol and Creag Leacach from Glen Isla

I love the Angus glens as they allow(ed) me to walk, climb, winter climb and ski close to our (former) home in Dundee. One area that I never really managed to explore is the head of Glen Isla from Auchavan. So during my first Scottish holiday from Munich I finally walked up the glen with Ana. 

Here she is at the beginning of the walk on an oversized landrover track. 

 The track gets wilder towards the "T-end" of the glen.

At the end of Glen Isla we walked West into Caenloachan Glen. Here the view up the glen.

 Here is Ana on her way to the end of the glen which leads to the plateau near Glas Maol.

 A truly wild but easy enough ascent, much better than the track from the ski area.

 Here a mountain hare near the summit of Glas Maol.

 We spontaenously decided to carry on to also ascent Creag Leacach. Overall we had great weather without any rain so the darker clouds were just temporary.

 We then descended into Glen Brighty, an error as it was mostly steep heather and scree. However, on the other hillside was a large herd of red deer. 

 We finally reached gentler walking back to Glen Isla and Auchavan. 

A great walk and a good alternative to bagging the Glenshee Munros. 

HW

Return to the seas & hills of Scotland

Life in Munich means that Scotland is now a holiday destination. But when I arrived at Edinburgh airport it felt as if I had never left. The Easyjet direct flight was late as usual but Ana picked me up well after midnight on Friday. On Sunday we joined a Tayside Sea Kayak Club party to paddle southwards from Stonehaven, one of my favourite trips. Here is Stonehaven harbour...

 ... and here are some of the many inlets and caves on this stunning part of the Scottish coast. 

 In one cave there is a seal colony that seems used to the kayaks. They come close, swim under the kayaks and one even nibbled on the paddle. This is why Scotland is a truly world class sea kayak destination. 

 The cliffs get higher and are still colonised by large colonies of sea birds. 

 I was missing the smell of the sea...

 ... the kayaking friends...

 ... and the great fishing. We caught lots of mackerel plus a decent sized pollack for evening BBQs.

 Here are more seals on the return to Stonehaven.

 ... and here we reach Stonehaven harbour after a great trip.

 Finally the Scottish "no mercy" heatwave (anything over 20 degrees, stay inside, drink plenty!) kicked in and Ana and I decided to paddle on the Tay towards Balmerino. 

 Flat water, great views...

 ... and near Tayport harbour we spottet several dolphins coming our way. Here is one of them.

 Here is Ana passing Tayport lighthouse...

 ... and here are the three oil rigs that dominate the Dundee horizon on the Northern shore.

 We were carried by the tide past the car and rail bridge...

 ... which is below. 

 Lunch on a beach in Balmerino. 

 After lunch the tide was flowing out but we had to paddle into the wind. 

 ... again past Dundee...

 ... and the lighthouse in Tayport.

What else? Another trip to Arbroath with grey skies so no pictures and an adventure somewhere in the Angus glens. It is great not to lose the Scottish experience and to start a new life in Munich because this is the European lifestyle that I hope to live in future!

HW

Euro Mountain biking

Whilst there are problems and whilst it is hard to reach decisions with well over 20 countries, Europe has achieved many things which are perhaps taken for granted or missed when not living in central Europe. One is the free travel. Last weekend and this weekend we went to Austria which is less than an hour from Munich. The border sign is easy to miss (Simon was surprised that we were already in Austria), our money is valid in Austria and I could easily live in Austria. I am old enough to know how it was before and to me all this, despite its problems, is an almost revolutionary achievement. And additionally this has given peace to nations that were frequently at war with each other. I leave it to you to deduce what I think about Brexit...

Moving on. After Simon's and my great climbing weekend I fancied some mountain biking in the Alps and went to Pertisau at the Achensee. 

 I cycled a tour described in a local mountain bike guide with my new hardtail Scott. 

 First I had to descend to 500 m only to then climb and climb to 1900 m.

 Here is the starting point...

 ... and here is the Achensee.

 Easy cycling on roads to Stans...

 ... and then nearly 1500 m up to the Lansenjochhuette in the Karwendel. Add to that a rocky path and so clumsy me had to push for an hour as suggested in the book. After that another climb over 500 m, a steep and lose descent to arrive at the car after over 50 kms.

HW

Kraxengrat & Suedwestpfeiler

After 18 years mostly in Scotland I moved to Munich, viewing the Shakesperean drama hat surrounds Brexit from afar. I live on the Southern border of Munich and after 40 km of rolling countryside the Alps start. Last weekend, Simon, a climbing friend from Scotland visited and so we aimed to climb for the first time the limestone of the Alps.

But first some images of Munich. I had forgotten about the long summers in Central Europe. Whilst Munich is away from the sea, there is plenty of water and whenever the sun is out the locals lie on the banks of the river Isar. 

 Lots of them!

 On the first July weekend 2016 Simon and I went to the Wilder Kaiser area to try the 14 rope length long but easy (Alpine grade 4, UK roughly severe) "Kraxengrat". Here a mountin goat during the approach. 

 And here is Simon on the approach. The Kraxengrat goes from the snow patch to the narrow ridge seen on the top left half of the picture. Eagle ridge on steroids.

 Much was scrambling, there were bolts where needed and we largely moved together. Here is Simon eyeing the upper part of the ridge. 

 And here he tackles a steeper and exposed bit... 

 ... on his approach towards the crux corner... 

 ... which is not shown. The bolts help to find the route and they are also shown on the climbing topo. Near the top there are some spectacularly exposed traverses.

 Here we are at the top. A walking path goes back into the Corrie.

 On our second climbing day we walked up from Mittenwald to the Dammkarhuette. Above is the Predigtstuhl, where we aimed for the 8 pitch Alpine 4 graded "Suedwestpfeiler". Here is Simon reaching the Amphitheater of the Western Karwendel...

 ... and here he leads pich 1 of our climb. 

 There were fewer bolts than on the Kraxengrat so some trad gear is necessary.

 Here is Simon with two climbers approaching the crag.

 After 5 steeper pitches... 

 ... it became easier, mostly scrambling to reach the top after 8 pitches. 

 Here a view towards the crag from our hut.

 And here another view. Eagle eyed folk will spot the climbers. The route starts in the triangular niche slightly right of the middle at the bottom of the crag.

22 easy rope lenghts in 2 days plus plenty of walking. Time to raise our game! 

HW