Sunday, 15 April 2018

Winnebacher Weisskogel (3182 m), the last ski tour of the season?

This winter it snowed a lot in the Alps and so spring ski tour conditions are still good if you go high. Arno suggested the "Winnebacher Weisskogel" (3182 m) from Luesens as an objective. The tour is described here: 
http://www.bergsteigen.com/skitour/tirol/stubaier-alpen/winnebacher-weisskogel-von-luesens
This is to the SouthWest of Innsbruck and already starts at 1600 m. Here is Arno starting with full snow cover even though it is already mid April... 
 ... and here is the first steeper bit that leads to a long glen with several branches. 
 From the higher glen we ascended westwards to the Westfalenhaus, which was already open.
 From roughly 2500 m Arno and I felt the altitude. Here I am near the summit. It looks easy but it was turned into a bowl with steep sides and I had to add my harscheisen's to avoid sliding down the hill. 
 Just before the summit the sun came out and we saw many peaks of the Stubaier Alps...
 ... and beyond.
 Here Arno starts to return to the ski depot. 
 The climbing temperatures and the sun softened the snow so that the descent was mostly easy skiing on "firn" rather than hard neve.
 Easy navigation...
 ... and good vistas...
 ... on the way to the Westfalenhaus where we had a "Cheese Knoedelsoup"...
... and a Weissbier sans alcohol. From there a final descent to the lower glen and start of the route. Surely this is the last act in a winter with many days on skis although most of the time these were on Nordic skis. 
HW

Sunday, 4 February 2018

Gilfert in the sunshine

Snow is the magic ingredient of winter that adds light and adventure to an otherwise grey winter's day. This is why I love Scottish winter climbing. In the Eastern Alps, the mountains are less accessible than in Scotland and are often covered by large amounts of snow so that skiing is much more practical than winter climbing. Together with Ana and Abdalla I did Nordic skiing during the last three wekeends but this Sunday Arno had proposed to skitour up Gilfert (2506 m), a mountain South of the Inn valley. The start in Innerst is 90 min away from Munich and the ascent is 1200 altimetres. The first part of the route is through a forest. Overnight snow gave way to sunshine by the time we started. Here is Arno in the forest... 
 ... and here we have a first glimpse of Gilfert...
 ... and here an even better view.
 Many skitourers left a good track...
 ... and after 2 h 30 min we approached the summit...
 ... after these skiers. 
 Here is Arno on the last bit...
 ... and here he is at the top with a view over the Inn valley.
 It was sunny but temperatures were far below zero. We took the skins off our skis and descended through beautiful, fluffy powder above a harder layer. Here is Arno styling it...
 ... and here are those special Alpine views...
 ... that explain why so many folk want to live in Munich. 
 We had our own powder...
 ... and etched both our own wiggly lines into it. 
 Here the last bit before reaching forest tracks to the bottom. 
At the bottom a Jausenstation (restaurant) in the sunshine with beer and a divine Knoedelsoup. A perfect day?
HW

Sunday, 17 December 2017

3... 2... 1... Liftoff! First skitour up the Schafreuter

This year, winter has started early with lots of snow in the Alps. Because of that  Arno and I decided to go ski touring this Sunday and Arno (he has worked, climbed and ski-toured in Munich before) selected a 1200 m ascent up the Schafreuter, a mountain South of Bad Toelz, near the Austrian border. Here is a description: 
https://www.bergfex.at/sommer/tirol/touren/skitour/34142,auf-den-schafreuter/

Near Hinterriss, our starting point, the roads were partially covered by snow and from the start at 850 m of altitude there was tons of snow. Here is Arno early during the ascent...
... and here he follows the forest track.
After that a wider opening in the forest. The Schafreuter is a popular tour so we did not have to break trail which would have been difficult as the snow was at least knee deep. 
We met another team and were glad when they led the way on the final ridge that led to the summit. Whiteout conditions. We stopped just before the summit. 
 It was Scottish (i.e. windy, white out, icy), so we removed the skins from the skis quickly. After a few minutes of whiteout skiing we reached the right line and were gliding through fluffy prime powder. Here is Arno ... 
 ... and here he is again styling his way down the hill. 
 I was a bit apprehensive about struggling in the powder, falling and losing my skis but everything went well and soon we reached the easy-to-ski (it was quite narrow though) forest track... 
 ... all the way back to the car. We have liftoff!
HW




Monday, 4 December 2017

The Seam, finally & President's Gully

This year Simon Richardson is the president of the Scottish Mountaineering Club and so I finally had to try really hard make the annual dinner. It all fitted well because on the Thursday before we had a meeting of the Physiological Society in memory of one of my mentors. On Wednesday the 30th I arrived in London with crampons and ice axes and after the meeting on the 30th, I went for a run through grey London early on Friday before flying to Inverness... 
 In Inverness, Robbie and Katie picked me up, we dined together (thanks!) and at 6.30 h Roger Webb picked me up. It seemed too warm and I had the feeling that all of this would turn into a gear carrying walk. Here is Roger in front but it got colder and colder on our way into Corrie an Sneachda.
 In the Corrie we were heading to the Fiacill buttress as Roger wanted to try a route that did not want him to try it. It is the Seam IV,5 (the "what happened" is a long story that is for Roger to tell). It also put some resistance up this time: a strong gust blew Roger's crampons down the corrie, I had some Salomon fast & light boots and crampons that came off three times before I realised what the problem was. Also, I only took one pair of gloves that was by now soaking wet and had turned into a hot ache generator. However, we are both stubborn and also the buttress seemed surprisingly white when the mist lifted for a moment. 
 The start was in proper winter condition when Roger started climbing...
 ... and the crux pitch seemed in perfect condition. 
 The climbing is way below Rogers limit so Roger got his teeth into it...
 ... and styled his way to the top. Job done. 
 My hotaches stopped, the crampons stayed on and I followed. Roger happy because the Seam had finally given up and me happy because I did not bring all that heavy gear for nothing. 

I really enjoyed the dinner afterwards with legends that included Jimmy Marshall and Greg Strange which I name because he made the first winter ascent of my favourite, the Cumming Crofton. Simon then announced that the president's walk would not be a walk around the local duck pond but an attempt to mass ascend an unrecorded gully line. The SMCers clapped their hands because Simond had just made the "M" in "SMC" a wee bit larger. He named Roger and me as the advance party.

On Sunday the advance party arrived last, geared up last and followed the main group. But mountaineers are problem solvers and so Simon got everyone organised and to the bottom of the cliff, onto a rope and eventually, Roger appeared first out of the gully. 
 It seems utopic to plan something like this for early December but the stars aligned and it was two pitches of neve as the slush had re-frozen overnight. 
 Watch out for the team photo which will appear elsewhere. Simon then led the way to the hard-to-find El Alamein bothy. It is just to the right of the climbers in red. 
 Here are the president's men returning...
 ... and here we are above Loch Morlich. 
A great trip. Thanks to everyone for picking me up, driving me around, feeding me, giving me a place to stay and for taking me out into the hills and for the dinner. Do I miss Scotland? I would if I lived in a big city away from the mountains and the sea. 
HW

Sunday, 3 September 2017

Arbroath sea cliffs

This is my last visit to Scotland at a time when either Ana or myself are living here. We finished with the Arbroath sea cliffs, one of the great paddles of the East coast. Another great day with little wind but more was forecast for the afternoon. Here we launch in Arbroath harbour...
 ... and here our group is leaving the harbour. 
There are many caves on this stretch of coast so the going is slow as most folk want to explore the caves and arches. Additionally, there are sports climbs but we did not see any climbers.  
 Here is Ana entering another channel or cave...
 ... and here Sheila et al are inside in one of the caves. 
 We broke for lunch at Auchmichtie, a former fishing village with a harbour ruin. Great to relax in the sunshine. 
 The tide then changed the direction of flow and the wind picked up as predicted and it all turned into proper ocean paddling with a few waves breaking over our kayaks. Here are Paul and Ana in choppy waters.
We will of course come back to paddle in Scotland and we hope that some Scots will visit us in Munich. We lose all this but luckily we also gain a lot in Munich as it is a city with good weather, culture, a nice place for us to stay and close to a lot of adventure (see the other blog entries).
HW