After a winter in Munich with much snow and skiing, summer weather arrived in April and since then it was warm. Arno and I worked long hours, climbed Wednesdays at the fabulous climbing wall in Thalkirchen and cycled a bit here and there. Mid June our no-big-climb-yet panic got bad so when Ana said that she was busy we agreed at 7 am and climb the Via Classica on the Wilder Kaiser.
The wild Emperor (there is a tame one next to it) is just 1 h 20 min from Munich and offers huge limestone walls and climbing history. It is also an ideal destination for Scottish climbers because there are direct flights from Edinburgh to Munich and with a rental car it will take you under 2 h to the Griesneralm which is the base for a huge amount of big climbs at any grade. Here is the map link:
https://www.google.de/maps/place/Griesneralm/@47.5798776,12.3296641,15z/data=!4m7!3m6!1s0x0:0xc0a0d1ec0e69b6fa!5m1!1s2018-06-24!8m2!3d47.5798776!4d12.3296641
Via Classica is a 15 pitch route with 86 bolts and Alpine V which is about VS. However, take some nuts because the bolts are mostly in the VS bits. It was set up and first climbed in 2002 by Niedermuehlbichler and Brandsttaetter and is popular so consider staying at the Stripsenjoch hut (book early). It is on the Fleischbank but on the North-Western side and the fact that it is in the shade is welcome on hot summer days.
Here is the topo from an earlier trip. When we climbed it there was a snow field at the bottom. Via classica follows a line to the left of a huge cleft to a grass band and then climbs inside a cleft to the second grass band. After that easier climbing and then scrambling to the top of the Fleischbank. Do not underestimate the duration of the scrambling and check out how to get down from the Fleischbank summit to the 4 abseils. It is a long day!
Here is Arno walking up from the Griesneralm. It takes a bit more than 1 h to the start of the route.
On the snowfield next to the start were two "Haudegen" that had no problem climbing not unsteep hardish neve in trainers. The Stripsenjoch hut is on the bealach.
Here Arno starts the route. Avoid the UK approach but move quickly and carefully. This is the Alps!
After the first traverse pitches climb under a chockstone and then chimney out onto a ridge.
Here, Arno climbs a steep bit. The cleft is a long way below. Note that there is some lose rock on the flatter bits.
Several long but relatively...
... straightfoward pitches follow.
Then a steeper V-wall..
... to the first grass terrace. The photo is deceptive as things are steeper than they look on the photo. 
Within the above piece of rock is a cleft. Here, Arno traverses...
... to the right...
... to end up in the big cleft.
Time to take it in.
There was an Austrian couple ahead of us. Here are the V pitches. Not overly tricky but remember you have climbed 10 pitches at this stage and carry a rucksack. It makes sense to practice rucksack climbing in Scotland.
Here is Arno on belay. The cleft is huge and the exposure is stunning. The highlight of the climb.
You reach the second grass terrace, climb two easy pitches and then end up in the sunshine (hopefully). The Stripsenjoch hut is now well below.
A longish ridge scramble to the top of the Fleischbank next. From here great views to the other walls. Here is the Predigtstuhl, preachers chair. Sport the climbers...
Here, Arno and the Austrians reach the top of the Fleischbank (2186 m).
You will be greeted by a few tame jackdaws that are after your food.
After that a down scramble, a walk back up to above the bealach and then 4 abseils down to safe ground.
Everything is well prepared. No rusty bolts but shiny stainless steel.
From there gravel surfing and a via ferrata back to the Griesneralm.
This time was the first time that we had our Helles and Kasspatzen whilst there was some light left. We are slowly learning the Kaiser game.
HW
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