It has been a trilogy of action weekends. First, the Wildspitze as a high altitude trek. Second, the superb sea kayaking symposium on the Shetland islands. And third, yesterday Arno and I climbed Blue Moon, a UIAA VI+ (roughly E1) graded 14 pitch climb on the Wilde Kaiser. In contrast to our other Kaiser climbs, this route started in Scheffau which is to the South of the Kaiser. The route had 5 long pitches graded VI and whilst there are bolts this is a lot of tricky climbing for us. Here is a topo of the route.
Arno picked me up at 6 am and it was already quite warm during the ascent. Here is a local.
After just under 2 h we reached the bottom of the route marked by a wee blue moon.
The first two pitches were easy but pitch 3 was a VI+ graded runnel pitch. Here, Arno starts the pitch...
... and here Arno is about to start to follow a long limestone runnel with painful foot placements and technical, balancy climbing.
After that essentially a walk to reach another piece of fantastic limestone including the giant flake on pitch 6).
Here, Arno starts pitch 5...
... and here he cruises to the bottom of the flake.
The flake was graded 6. However, it is long, pumpy with sketchy foot placements. Here, I start the climbing.
The angle is first moderate and the climbing is pumpy but within the comfort zone. However, at the end the angle steepens and the flake goes rightwards. Pump Central! Both Arno and I really had to dig deep and I was about to come off several times. Luckily there are 12 bolts in this pitch as the flake would only take giant cams.
Above a bit of grassy scrambling to get on the giant, exposed towers that form the upper part of the route. Two pitches of V which is roughly hard severe.
Here, Arno finishes the secon of the V-graded pitches.
The next bit is again harder climbing that includes three long VI-graded pitches which was tough after the flake pump fest. Here, I am on one of these pitches.
We finally reached the top of the tower...
... and here is Arno zoomed in.
Just a grade II scramble followed by a blocky but relatively steep pitch graded IV to emerge at the top.
A wee walk on the ridge with a view to the West...
... and to the North. The river is the Inn, which has eroded the valley from Kufstein to Innsbruck.
After that 1300 m of descent, just like Ben Nevis.
The Wilde Kaiser is a fantastic, classical climbing area and highly recommended for Scottish climbers. Generally the style is bolted belays and bolts where the climbing is harder but not elsewhere and this helps to do big routes in a day. So take up to 20 quickdraws, a lean set of nuts and some cams. Take 1.5 l of water because it can be warm (you usually end up more or less dehydrated) and either have a light, largr rucksack for the second or use one light rucksack each. Also, perhaps start with a route well within your limits.
HW
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