Norbert Wortberg is a study friend of mine who lives in the Eifel, a hilly region near Cologne. And Nobbi needed adventure. So we decided to meet at the Jägerwirt above Scheffau at the Wilder Kaiser for the Kraxengrat, an 18-pitch IV- Alpine ridge which I had previously climbed with Simon albeit with hardly any snow. This time, there was still a lot of snow after lots of snow fall in late winter and so we took crampons and ice axes. Here, Nobbi crosses the first wet snow avalanche field.
We carried three ice axes but after the approach, the ridge was mostly snow-free. When we were on pitch two, a fast, guided pair appeared at the bottom of the ridge who overtook us. Here is a photo of them overtaking us.
After the first three pitches, we reached a walking pitch with the ridge proper seen on the left.
The climbing was mainly 2-3. Just lots of straightforward climbing with the odd bolt. Here is Nobbi tackling one of the steeper bits.
Here, views of the Treffauer to the South, one of the major Kaiser peaks.
The ridge has two cruxes. The first is an exposed diedre which is easier than it looks. The second crux is a steepish wall graded IV-, probably severe in UK money, climbed in big boots. Here is Nobbie at the end of the second crux.
The ridge is 18 pitches long. There are some bolts but bringing slings and some extra gear helps. Here is Nobbi on an exposed downclimb that is the last tricky-ish bit.
Here Nobbi again clinging on to some rock.
We finally topped out but a wee bit late. Luckily it was cloudy and so whilst the snow was wet it was not totally falling apart. First, a ridge walk with gorgeous views towards Kufstein and the Inn valley.
And then a descent down some wet, heavy slopes. Luckily the snow was not too deep and there were clouds so that it remained largely stable.
And finally green pastures and some deep blue Gentian, my favourite Alpine flower.
The Kraxengrat is such a great mountaineering route and one of the few easy routes on the Wilder Kaiser. Definitely recommended.
HW
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