Luftige Kante (V-), Dammkar, Karwendel

Markus Smetan is a study friend of mine and Arno Alpi is my trusted climbing partner. Markus was in our area for mountain action and so we agreed to climb the "Luftige Kante" (airy edge), a seven pitch UIAA V- (UK HS/VS) in the Dammkar of the Karwendel. This is below our normal grade but because of COVID-19, we have not climbed indoors for over a year so no climbing fitness and so we avoided grade VI!

The walk-in starts in Mittenwald and then goes up into the Dammkar to reach the Dammkarhütte. The Dammkar is a gravel amphitheatre but unfortunately, the Karwendel rock is mostly loose so no good/too exciting for climbing. There are some exceptions. One is the Predigtstuhl (not to be confused with the more famous Predigtstuhl at the Wilder Kaiser) to the left/East of the Dammkarhütte and others are ridges such as the Mama-Kante and the Luftige Kante that are to the right/West of the Dammkarhütte. Here is a link to the topo https://bypass.bergsteigen.com/touren/pdf/luftige-kante-dammkar/?showOptions=pdfTopo and here, Markus and Arno are ascending from the Dammkarhütte. The Luftige Kante starts at the rock blades on the right side just below the bealach. 

 

Here a look down. The Dammkarhütte is on the grassy patch below. Great scenery but hard walking on the stone chute max. 

Here is a women's team that has just started the Luftige Kante. The route has bolted belays. In addition, there are poor quality "Sticht-Haken" plus some modern bolts in a few places where it matters. We additionally had small nuts (I placed one but not essential), friends (I placed two but not necessary) and slings (good idea, many opportuinities). 

Here is Arno at the end of pitch 2, I think. See the two rock blades at the bottom. They are a good marker for the Luftige Kante.

The crux is balancy friction moves at the bottom of a limestone slab with water runnels. Here, Arno starts the crux...

and here, Markus starts the crux whilst Arno has reached the part where the runnels are deeper with better holds.

After that easier climbing on an airy edge...

... higher and higher above the Dammkar below. 

At this point the ridge turns into a blade of rock. 

After 7 pitches, the Luftige Kante ends on a grassy bealach. Descend left a bit for a 2 x 60 m abseil or scramble to the top. 

The second abseil steeply descends into a stone chute which is a pain to descend. 

Further down for a beer or "Helles" at the Dammkarhütte whilst a thunderstorm was building. 

However, it only rained moderately and so we were soon in Mittenwald for an ice cafe & coffee. I can definitely recommend the Amarena spaghetti ice first for taste and second for putting some weight on!

HW