Via Classica V, Wilder Kaiser

After a winter in Munich with much snow and skiing, summer weather arrived in April and since then it was warm. Arno and I worked long hours, climbed Wednesdays at the fabulous climbing wall in Thalkirchen and cycled a bit here and there. Mid June our no-big-climb-yet panic got bad so when Ana said that she was busy we agreed at 7 am and climb the Via Classica on the Wilder Kaiser.

The wild Emperor (there is a tame one next to it) is just 1 h 20 min from Munich and offers huge limestone walls and climbing history. It is also an ideal destination for Scottish climbers because there are direct flights from Edinburgh to Munich and with a rental car it will take you under 2 h to the Griesneralm which is the base for a huge amount of big climbs at any grade. Here is the map link:

https://www.google.de/maps/place/Griesneralm/@47.5798776,12.3296641,15z/data=!4m7!3m6!1s0x0:0xc0a0d1ec0e69b6fa!5m1!1s2018-06-24!8m2!3d47.5798776!4d12.3296641

Via Classica is a 15 pitch route with 86 bolts and Alpine V which is about VS. However, take some nuts because the bolts are mostly in the VS bits. It was set up and first climbed in 2002 by Niedermuehlbichler and Brandsttaetter and is popular so consider staying at the Stripsenjoch hut (book early). It is on the Fleischbank but on the North-Western side and the fact that it is in the shade is welcome on hot summer days. 

Here is the topo from an earlier trip. When we climbed it there was a snow field at the bottom. Via classica follows a line to the left of a huge cleft to a grass band and then climbs inside a cleft to the second grass band. After that easier climbing and then scrambling to the top of the Fleischbank. Do not underestimate the duration of the scrambling and check out how to get down from the Fleischbank summit to the 4 abseils. It is a long day!

Here is Arno walking up from the Griesneralm. It takes a bit more than 1 h to the start of the route. 

On the snowfield next to the start were two "Haudegen" that had no problem climbing not unsteep  hardish neve in trainers. The Stripsenjoch hut is on the bealach. 

 Here Arno starts the route. Avoid the UK approach but move quickly and carefully. This is the Alps!

 After the first traverse pitches climb under a chockstone and then chimney out onto a ridge.

 Here, Arno climbs a steep bit. The cleft is a long way below. Note that there is some lose rock on the flatter bits. 

 Several long but relatively...

 ... straightfoward pitches follow.

 Then a steeper V-wall..

 ... to the first grass terrace. The photo is deceptive as things are steeper than they look on the photo.

 Within the above piece of rock is a cleft. Here, Arno traverses...

 ... to the right...

 ... to end up in the big cleft. 

 Time to take it in. 

 There was an Austrian couple ahead of us. Here are the V pitches. Not overly tricky but remember you have climbed 10 pitches at this stage and carry a rucksack. It makes sense to practice rucksack climbing in Scotland.

 Here is Arno  on belay. The cleft is huge and the exposure is stunning. The highlight of the climb.

You reach the second grass terrace, climb two easy pitches and then end up in the sunshine (hopefully). The Stripsenjoch hut is now well below.

 A longish ridge scramble to the top of the Fleischbank next. From here great views to the other walls. Here is the Predigtstuhl, preachers chair. Sport the climbers...

 Here, Arno and the Austrians reach the top of the Fleischbank (2186 m).

 You will be greeted by a few tame jackdaws that are after your food. 

 After that a down scramble, a walk back up to above the bealach and then 4 abseils down to safe ground. 

Everything is well prepared. No rusty bolts but shiny stainless steel.

 From there gravel surfing and a via ferrata back to the Griesneralm.

 This time was the first time that we had our Helles and Kasspatzen whilst there was some light left. We are slowly learning the Kaiser game. 

HW

Hirschberg (1670 m), a Munich Hausberg...

This Monday was a Pentecost bank holiday and so Ana and I jumped into the car early to beat the traffic and arrived at 10 am in Scharling, a village South of the Tegernsee. Here, Bavaria is green and lush and green. The Hirschberg is right in front. It is one of the Munich Hausberge (local mountains) of the Bavarian foothills of the Alps. 

 Beautiful flowers on fat, green meadows, a ruminants paradise!

 This area is also touristic and gentle to the walker, none of the wild, boggy Scottish paths but well groomed gravel paths that lead up the hills with plenty of signposts. 

 The forest cooled us...

 ... apart from the odd opening...

 ... until we reached the upper, more open sides of the hill. Some birches here. 

 On to the Hirschberghaus which is 30 min away from the summit. 

 Clouds moved in but well above us so they did not steal our hard earned views. 

 Finally the summit and the Tegernsee. 

 Here, the local tradition is to put a cross on top of a mountain. 

 It soon started to rain and we ended up in a downpour and heard some thunder in the distance. 

 We then queued for ages in the Hirschberghaus and cruised down the hill. 

Nearly 1000 altimetres in beautiful upper Bavaria.
HW

Strathfarrar and Mullardoch Munros

Mike and Roger are friends from Oxford that I know for roughly 20 years. And after I had finished my round of the Munros in 2005, Mike started his round in earnest. Since then we have met for Munro trips and since I did not want my move to Munich to get in the way of Scottish mountaineering, I booked the EasyJet night flight on the 3.5.2018 and arrived in Edinburgh just before midnight. Two sugarfree Red Bulls and 4 hours later, I arrived with my hired red Fiat 500 in the Westward B&B in Cannich and followed Mike's signs to the bedroom. We got up at 8 am, ate breakfast and at around 10 am we arrived at our starting point in Glen Strathfarrar (the glen with the barrier guarded by that sometimes friendly lady from Yorkshire, called Margaret). The skies were heavy...

 ... and it drizzled whilst Mike, Roger and I exchanged stories and made our way up to the ridge. However, one team descended and our way was blocked by a cornice. I kicked a step ladder and also hacked steps through the cornice to allow our team to make it to the ridge. Here are Roger and Mike going for it...

It was a tough, windy and rainy Scottish day on the hills but I loved battling the wind as there is little wind in Munich. The Strathfarrar Munros are Sgurr na Fearstaig, Creag Ghorm a'Bealaich, Carn nan Gobhar (read by us as "go bar") and Sgur na Ruaidhe.    

Here is the Strava track of our round. 

We realised that we were in the only glen in Scotland with a gate and that the gate would be closed at 19 h by the Yorkshire lady. So we rushed back to our cars. After some dynamic Glen driving I reached the gate at 18.57 h and Roger and Mike at 18.59 h (which was uncharacteristic for an Epic prone team). Margaret was not amused. Dinner and Ale in the Struy Inn and then I fell asleep on my bed.

For the Saturday we had planned the Munros North of Loch Mullardoch. During my round of the Munros, I had done all the Mullardoch Munros in two days, with a glorious camp and a cloud inversion sunrise during a warm April weekend. Here is Roger walking up to the dam...

 ... and here we approach Mike's great idea which is Angus' speedboat. Angus' speedboad would help us to avoid a long walk in on a poor, boggy path. 

 Here is Angus...

 ... and here is Mike. Mike probably expected some pleasure boat trip but Angus meant business, it was windy and the combination was a white-knuckle ride down Loch Mollardoch. Every wave rammed our spine into our skull and so it felt more like the Streif in Kitzbühel than a cruise on lake Chiemsee. We exited near the end of the loch...

 ... and started to ascend on the pathless ground with some blue skies. A long way up to An Socach, our first Munro,...

 ... from the shores of Loch Mullardoch...

 ... past a stream of water...

 ... and the carcass of a red deer...

 ... up some shorter steps...

 ... through a wild country with endless peat hags...

 ... higher and higher...

 ... and so on...

 ... to reach the summit of An Socach. Here is Roger...

 ... and here is Mike.

 We then followed the ridge to the East...

... for a long time...

 ... up to above 1100 m...

 ... to the second Munro of Creagan Toll an Lochain.

 From there a 300 m descent and re-ascent Sgurr na Lapaich. I remember the hard slog up from the bealach from my first round of these Munros. I remember being shattered.  At the summit we met a Scottish team that went our way and a Mancunian team that planned to do a two day trip around the loch. Their bags seemed very heavy and they were late in the day.  

 After that a descent with a great view to the East face of this mountain followed by a grassy descent into the valley. 

Here is the Strava track of our round including Angus' pleasure cruise.

 On the Sunday morning, I drove back to Edinburgh and decided to take some photos of the great Scottish bridges. I like Scotland as a country that builds bridges rather than walls. Here is the iconic Forth Bridge, the oldest of the three...

... and here is Scotlands new bridge, the Queensferry crossing. 

Again, a hard but great weekend in the Scottish hills. Still plenty to do as Mike still needs to bag over 100 Munros. 

HW