Friday 8 July 2016

Kraxengrat & Suedwestpfeiler

After 18 years mostly in Scotland I moved to Munich, viewing the Shakesperean drama hat surrounds Brexit from afar. I live on the Southern border of Munich and after 40 km of rolling countryside the Alps start. Last weekend, Simon, a climbing friend from Scotland visited and so we aimed to climb for the first time the limestone of the Alps.

But first some images of Munich. I had forgotten about the long summers in Central Europe. Whilst Munich is away from the sea, there is plenty of water and whenever the sun is out the locals lie on the banks of the river Isar. 
 Lots of them!
 On the first July weekend 2016 Simon and I went to the Wilder Kaiser area to try the 14 rope length long but easy (Alpine grade 4, UK roughly severe) "Kraxengrat". Here a mountin goat during the approach. 
 And here is Simon on the approach. The Kraxengrat goes from the snow patch to the narrow ridge seen on the top left half of the picture. Eagle ridge on steroids.
 Much was scrambling, there were bolts where needed and we largely moved together. Here is Simon eyeing the upper part of the ridge. 
 And here he tackles a steeper and exposed bit... 
 ... on his approach towards the crux corner... 
 ... which is not shown. The bolts help to find the route and they are also shown on the climbing topo. Near the top there are some spectacularly exposed traverses.
 Here we are at the top. A walking path goes back into the Corrie.
 On our second climbing day we walked up from Mittenwald to the Dammkarhuette. Above is the Predigtstuhl, where we aimed for the 8 pitch Alpine 4 graded "Suedwestpfeiler". Here is Simon reaching the Amphitheater of the Western Karwendel...
 ... and here he leads pich 1 of our climb. 
 There were fewer bolts than on the Kraxengrat so some trad gear is necessary.
 Here is Simon with two climbers approaching the crag.
 After 5 steeper pitches... 
 ... it became easier, mostly scrambling to reach the top after 8 pitches. 
 Here a view towards the crag from our hut.
 And here another view. Eagle eyed folk will spot the climbers. The route starts in the triangular niche slightly right of the middle at the bottom of the crag.
22 easy rope lenghts in 2 days plus plenty of walking. Time to raise our game! 
HW 


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