Monday 17 April 2017

Semana Santa in Leon, Pena Corada (Pina Colada)

Ana and I spent Easter 2017 in Leon in Northern Spain. The weather can be changeable at Easter but this time the weather could be described interchangeably as a) a Scottish heatwave, b) Munich early summer or c) Spanish spring. Leon lies on the Meseta, the high plateau of central Spain. To the North is the Cordillera Cantabrica including the Picos de Europa, a mountain range that separates the wet Costa Verde from the drier plateau.

During our stay Ana and decided to walk Pena Corada (Pina Colada to make it easier) described in the Cicerone guidebook of the area:
https://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/363/title/walking-in-the-cordillera-cantabrica#.WPSQatKGPIU

Spring had also arrived in the mountain village of Fuentes de Penacorada, the starting point of our walk. 
 Here is Ana starting the walk...
 ... which first descends to a stream and then climbs the other side. 
After that, we walked up the hillside following no tracks. In the following photo, we have nearly reached the ridge. Fuentes de Penacorada is the village just above and left of Ana in the distance. 
 We followed the ridge with views of the endless Meseta to the right and the other hills of the Cordillera Cantabrica to the left or northwards. 
 Here the view North from the top. The hills of the Picos de Europa are still a long way to go. 
 The way down was not well described in the book, so more scree dodging than necessary. And then finally easier walking with some heather. 
 A great day. 

Leon is well worth visiting as it has a large old town and is a good, cheap base close to the Picos de Europa and other walking and climbing areas. It is also on the Camino de Santiago, the pilgrim's path of Northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Leon has a beautiful cathedral...
 ... a house built by Gaudi...
 ... and a palace by the river. 
 I used our stay to develop my running either around the city (16 km) or along the river. There are some good dirt tracks near the river... 
 ... and I used the opportunity to build up my vitamin D levels. 
 Leon is especially known among the Spanish for its Semana Santa, the week leading up to Easter. During that week there are processions where folk carry huge boxes with Christian sculptures through town. Here are the carries of one sculpture. 
 Here is a sculpture of Mary during one of the largest processions on Good Friday. 
 During Semana Santa, the town is crowded (so book by Christmas if you wish to visit) and the locals and tourists join the huge number of bars that serve free tapas with every drink. Not really a pre-Easter fasting period in modern Leon. 

We also enjoyed time in a Finca outside Leon with a Spanish-English Euro couple that are friends of Ana. They live in Barcelona and visit their Finca in Leon during holidays. Great Spanish spring light...
 ... and a parrillada (BBQ). 
Leon in spring, early summer or autumn is highly recommended if you want to climb, walk, take part in Spanish life & do some culture. Fly either to Madrid or Asturias and it is best to rent a car. 
HW

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